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Wine Review Archive, January 2002

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Jan. 26, 2002 - Los Vascos, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Calchagua, Chile. $8.  Recommendation:  Drink    Best Bottle

During the late 80s European and American wine makers began to see Chile as a wine growing region of tremendous potential.  Wine has been made in Chile for more than 400 years, but new planting and foreign investment in modern production methods dramatically increased the quality.  

When Chilean wines hit the world wine market they quickly established reputation for quality at low prices.  Los Vascos, controlled and part owned by France's Baron Lafite Rothschild, is one of the best examples of fine Bordeaux style reds made in Chile: great tannins, subtle berry flavor, rich aroma.  Don't let the price fool you, this is a winner.

Jan. 19, 2002 - Fortant de France, Kosher, 1999 Chardonnay, Vin de Pays d'Oc.  $11 @ Albertson's in Meyerland.  Recommendation: Drink, or not...

My opinion on Chardonnay is well documented (see Dec. 29 review) but this was a pretty good drink.  This bottle of Kosher Chardonnay was left unopened at Dylan's Brit Milah in Dec, and we had it tonight with barbequed chicken.  A lot of people are scared off by kosher wines, but there are some good ones out there.  We enjoyed the kosher Cabernet and Merlot by Fortant, and the Chardonnay was fine.  Round, fruity, tasty, no big deal, tasted like any other Vin de Pays Chard. 

Jan. 18, 2002 - Marques de Caceres, 2000 White Rioja, Spain.  $5.50 @ Fiesta.  Recommendation: Drink.

This is a fun, simple, cheap white wine.  It has an almost unperceivable effervescence; you can't see bubbles, but you'll feel a vague fizz on your tongue.  It also has just the slightest hint of sweetness, a citrus and celery flavor, and it was wonderful with broiled whitefish in a crab meat sauce.  Be careful, it's easy to drink a lot of white Rioja; a bottle just slips away if you don't pay attention.  For a little more serious drink, try the red Rioja by the same producer.

Jan. 14, 2002 - Burgess, 2000 Zinfandel, Lodi, California.  $9 @ Whole Foods.  Recommendation: Drink*.

Ok, so you're looking at this, and you're wondering where the heck is Lodi?  I can't blame you.  Although I had heard of it before, I had to dig out my Huge Johnson to find it.  Lodi is the northern end of California's Central Valley, an area better known for growing table grapes and iceberg lettuce than find wine.  However, Lodi is on the same latitude as Napa, and manages to draw in enough cool air from the San Fran bay to grow some serious grapes.  Over the last few years, Zin has emerged as Lodi's most promising varietal.

Burgess makes some incredible Napa wines that I can never afford, so I was hip to try their take on Zin from an out-of-the-way AVA.  Rich, earthy, inky-black Zin with a mellow finish.  

*It's worth noting that Julie found this one a little "under whelming".

Jan. 13, 2002 - Rosemont Estates, 2000 Pinot Noir, S.E. Australia.  $8.  Recommendation: Drink.

I'm a fan of Aussie wines, in general, but had never tasted a Pinot Noir from down-unda' until tonight.  We grilled lamb; and what could be more appropriate than an Australian wine?  Rosemont has a reputation  (well deserved) for good wines at a good price, but this still seemed a bit of a stretch.  I was pleasantly surprised.  Good Pinot flavor, and a heartier texture than I expected.  A great match with tender lamb, olive oil and roasted garlic.  Julie was very impressed, as well (by the wine & the lamb).

Jan. 11, 2002 - Clos Du Bois, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Cal. North Coast, $8.  Recommendation: Don't Drink.

It pains me to the core to give anything by Clos Du Bois a negative rating, but I'm left with no choice.  A good Sauvignon Blanc should have clean, refreshing flavors of citrus and tart pear.  However, this one was completely overshadowed by a "hot" flavor.  Wines described as hot have too much alcohol, or not enough fruit flavor to balance the alcohol.  The result is a raw, searing mouth-feel, a sensation of heat on the pallet.  Typically, the fault is in the wine making process when initial fermentation temperature is not precisely controlled.  The real disappointment is that (until today) I've never had a bad wine from Clos Du Bois, and hope that this is just a fluke.  

Jan. 8, 2002 - Tudal, 1998 Tractor Shed Red, Napa.  $18 online or in limited distribution.  Recommendation: Drink!

Cory McNinch became the first to take me up on my offer: give me a bottle and I'll review it.  He gave me this intriguing wine, and then invited us over for dinner, giving me a perfect opportunity to taste it.  I understand that Tudal is a favorite of his dad's.  Tudal is one of those wealthy eccentrics who retired in Napa and decided to give wine making a try.  However, unlike most, he got really good at it; Tudal Reserve Napa Cab is a much sought after wine.

Tudal also makes a Tractor Shed Red (TSR) each year, just for fun.  It's different from year to year, but always a creative blend of grapes.  This '97 TSR is Sangiovese, Syrah and Merlot.  Wow!  Far, far out stuff.  The Sangiovese comes out through the soft texture, and the Syrah reveals itself in a peppery, spicy flavor.  Imaging feeling Chianti (a good one) while tasting Cotes du Rhone!  Outstanding with the med. rare stake Cory served.  Killer stuff! 

Jan. 4, 2002 - Bogle, 2000 Merlot, California.  $9-$11.  Recommendation: Drink.     Best Bottle

I like Merlot on occasion, but finding a good one at a reasonable price is harder than it is with, say, a Cabernet.  But I love Bogle's Petite Syrah, so I was willing to give their Merlot a try.  It was very nice.  Much more complexity than I expect from a $10 Merlot, and it didn't have that annoying grape-jelly flavor so common in young Merlots.  An excellent pick, but I can't take credit for this one.  My mom served it to us, and it made for a very good drink.

Jan. 1, 2002 - Chandon, NV Blanc de Noirs, Carneros.  $14-$16.  Recommendation: Drink.

New Years Day is a natural time for sparkling wine, and I really like this one.  Chandon Napa is the California sparkling wine house owned and operated by Moet Chandon, the Champagne house responsible for White Star and Dom Perignon.  If you ever get to go to Napa you must visit Chandon!  It is one of the most beautiful places in the wine country, gives a great tour, and has a fantastic restaurant.

Blanc de Noir (French for 'white from red') is a crisp, dry white sparkler made from red Pinot Noir juice that never got a chance to take pigmentation from the skins.  It has a slight ruddy tint, a wonderful hint of yeasty flavor, strong effervescence and dry, yet lush fruit flavors.  Great by itself, also makes a heavenly Mimosa.