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Wine Review Archive, February 2002

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Feb. 28, 2002 - Becker Vineyards, 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Texas Hill Country.  $10 @ Fiesta..  Recommendation: Don't Drink.

I've always tried to be kind to Texas wines.  But the fact is that, under $25, wine from The Lone Star State (hip as the idea may seem) is almost uniformly mediocre.  Becker is a pretty reputable winery, and I'm not going to tell you that it was a bad SB.  But it was no better than Mondavi Coastal or Beringer Founder's, either one falling in the $6-8 range.

Some argue that Texas is ideally suited for Viogner, Malbec and Muscato, and that the problem lies in the wine market's refusal to buy anything other than Cab, Chard or Merlot.  Maybe.  Who knows?  Who cares?  Stick with Texas beer and California wine.

Feb. 21, 2002 - Hugel, 1999 "Gentil", Alsace, France.  $12 @ Central Market.  Recommendation: Drink.

Julie and I had a picnic, and with us that's a lavish affair.  We usually eat better in the park than we do at home.  The spread typically includes fresh fruit, sliced meats, French cheeses, cured olives and a crusty baguette.  Of course, all this calls for a picnic wine.  I'm partial to a refreshing, off-dry white for these occasions.  That used to mean a German Riesling; a Kabinett or Spatlesse.  But ever since discovering Alsace wines I haven't had much use for Germans.

This one is something of an oddity.  While most Alsace wines are single varietals, this one is a blend of Chasselas, Sylvaner, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris.  It's also not as sweet as most Alsace wines.  Gentil has a rich texture, but is only slightly sweet.  It's flavor is mostly citrus, lemon and grapefruit.  Very nice and crisp.  Watch out, however!  It's a real headache wine if you have too much while relaxing in the sun.

Feb. 13, 2002 - Kendall Jackson Collage, 2000 California Cabernet/Zinfandel.  $6.50.  Recommendation: Don't Drink.

Back in December I reviewed a Shiraz/Zen blend called Collage by Kendall Jackson (see Dec. Archive).  It was so surprisingly good that I threatened to try the other flavor, a Cab/Zin.  It was a decent drink, but I did not enjoy it as much as it's spicier team mate.  Perhaps the fact that it was also a year younger had something to do with it.  Maybe it's just next to impossible to get good Cabernet and still retail under $7.  A little thin, without much hint of tannin.  

My recommendation:  go get a bottle of the Shiraz/Zen.

Feb. 8, 2002 - La Vielle Ferme, 2000 Cotes du Luberon Blanc, Rhone Valley.  $7.50.  Recommendation: Drink

La Vielle Ferme has realized something that still eludes most French winemakers.  An obscure French region will not grab American attention (or dollars) without some marketing effort.  I mean, have you ever heard of Cotes du Luberon?  Or a grape called Ugni-Blanc?  Building a brand takes a lot work, but a cool label is a good start; especially in contrast to the endless flow of French bottles adorned by pictures of old houses. 

La Viella Ferme makes a red and a rose' in addition to this Rhone Blanc.  It's a pungent white with lots of funky fruit flavor and a tiny hint of sweetness.  Great with fish.  It's an afternoon wine, and a good one when you're at home and the sun's still up, and a more serious wine just doesn't seem appropriate.

Feb. 3, 2002 - Santa Rita 120, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile.  $6.50.  Recommendation:  Don't Drink

Santa Rita is another of those brands that I put a lot (a lot, a lot) of effort into selling while at Glazers.  Not that it was a hard sell:  good drink, and the price is right.  Still, I have a tough time recommending it now.  Julie pointed out that the Cab had some off flavors and I found the texture a little weak.  The website suggested enjoying it with rabbit...  maybe that was the problem?  Not really a bad bottle, but compared to other Chileans in the same price range (such as Los Vascos, immediately below) the 120 came across a little weak.  

P.S.  Couldn't quite finish the bottle; had the last glass the following day and it was a bit improved.